2008 Mille Lacs Country Fair

2008 Mille Lacs Country Fair

Demo Derby Rules

Please note that if your car/truck does not pass inspection-absolutely no refunds

General Rules:

Pit gate opens at 2:00pm. Come early, inspection cutoff is one hour before the start of the derby.
Fighting, drinking, and the use of drugs are not permitted on the grounds anytime before, during, or after the derby. Anything confiscated WILL NOT be returned.
Drivers must use safety restraints and wear both eye protection and a helmet while in a car. Sunglasses are NOT permitted as eye protection.
Stock gas tanks, plus ALL glass & plastic must be removed from the derby car. No glass left in doors. Cars must be completely cleaned on the inside.
Batteries must be strapped to the floor on the front passenger side. They must be secured and covered with a non-flammable material. Rubber mats, however, are acceptable.
No profanity written on cars.
No frame suspension or body modifications other than what is specified. NO EXCEPTIONS!
Driver’s door may be fully welded. Patch weld the other doors & trunk (6” on 6” off)
One piece of angle iron (2”x 2” x ¼” thick maximum) allowed on the top of the radiator core support, fender to fender. Core support may be tack welded down. No other core support modifications.
Gas tanks must be made of STEEL ONLY and located in the center of the back seat. The gas tank must be secured by metal/heavy straps, protected on all sides, and chained/bolted securely and covered.
For the driver’s safety, the driver’s door MUST be painted white.
Open hood inspections are required for all classes, with the exceptions of the trucks
Your pit area must be cleaned up and all parts and cars removed from the grounds.
Officals will make all decisions. All decisions are final!
The person that signs in as the driver, MUST be the driver for the event!
ALL drivers and crewmembers must attend the driver’s meeting.
DO NOT hit the driver’s door! Sometimes this happens, but if it looks intentional or careless, you will be disqualified. Don’t use your door as a shield, it may cause you to be disqualified. Please build your door to withstand a hit.
Any open door or 2 fires will cause disqualification. If this happens in a heat, you may fix it and come back for the consolation.
No sandbagging or holding!! You will be disqualified!!
You are given 30 seconds for aggressive hits, 2 minutes for restarts, and 2 minutes if you are hung up.
Any controversies will be taken up in the driver’s meeting.
If it doesn’t state in the rules that you can do it, DON”T DO IT!!

2008 RULES AND REGULATIONS
PRO WELDED STOCK CAR DERBY RULES

1979 and older Ford’s, 1978 and older Mopar’s,
1976 and older GM’s

** Please note changes to the 2008 Rules. Please read carefully.**

NO IMPERIALS OR IMP SUBS!!!

Car Preparation

1. All cars must be stock, unless modification is stated in the rules.

2. All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby.

3. All decking in station wagons MUST be removed!!!

4. Tires no bigger than 15 inch, No split rims, No studded tires or tractor lugs. Foam filled or doubled tires OK – we don’t want any flats!!! Valve stems protectors OK.

5. Use motor and tranny of choice, motor must be in stock location. You may chain or weld motor and tranny to keep in place (don’t strengthen the frame). You may have a 2” scrap from the motor head to frame on top side of frame next to A-arm on each side of motor and can be welded with no added metal!

6. Use rear end of choice, must be 5 lugs. You can tilt rear end if you wish. Welded or posi-track highly recommended.

7. You must use a radiator and it must be in stock location.

8. All cars must have working brakes.

9. A-arms, ball joints and Tie-rods must remain stock.

10. All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.

11. Original gas tanks must be removed. You must use a boat tank or well made fuel cell and it must be properly secured and covered. No gas cans. Fuel line must be secured and fastened properly. Keep away from exhaust. Place fuel cell behind driver’s seat or in the center of the car where the back seat used to be.

12. Transmission coolers will be allowed, but must be safe and properly secured.

13. Batteries must be moved to passenger floorboard close to transmission. It must be properly secured and covered. No bungy straps.

14. You must have a number in Bright colors on each front door and must have 15”x15” sign with car number on it for judging and recognition of car.

Car Building

1. There is a 5-inch weld rule pertaining to car body inside and out. Doors, trunks & tailgates may be weld with 3”x 5”x ¼” straps or smaller fill materials. Tailgate on wagon is not considered a door and must be welded to the 5” weld rule! No homemade body seams – factory seams only! Weld 5-skip 5-skip 5 etc, on all body seam and you may use smaller (SMALL) fill material for the seams. DO NOT weld on the frame or the frame seams. You can weld top frame seam from the firewall forward, 5”on 5”off. The frame seam weld can’t be larger then ½” wide or it will be cut!! Don’t weld bottom side.

2. If you don’t weld your doors, trunk, or tailgate, you can chain them with 3/8 chains or less and you are allowed 1 chain/wire every 5” per seam.

3. **For driver’s protection, you may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost, it can be an X, you may also have a bar across your dash, you may connect the dash bar to bars behind seat across the inside of front door only, you may also weld your steering column in, you can also weld a plate across the driver’s door not to exceed 6 inches past each seam. Back of cage can only be 10” from back of seat.

4. No homemade bumper or brackets. You can weld bumper brackets to the frame. You can weld bumper brackets and shocks to the bumper. You may trim bumper ends or fold hem around. No welding on the bumpers except to weld the brackets or shocks. When welding bumpers, shocks and brackets – do not add any metal. Weld shocks and brackets solid if you wish (5-inch weld rule doesn’t apply to shocks or brackets) weld them well; we don’t want any bumpers falling off!

5. Bumpers may be welded to end of frame with no added metal, just use the welder. Rear bumper may have 2 straps from trunk deck or tailgate to bumper (not frame). Straps can be up to 4” wide and no more than 5” on the bumper and 5” on the trunk or tailgate. Straps may be up to ¼” thick.

6. **Hood must have at least a 12-inch square hole cut out in case of fire. Any holes cut in hood may be bolted back together with 3/8” or less bolt. You can put a bolt every 12” or 4 per hole. You will be allowed 8 hood bolts; you MUST have at least 4 hood bolts. You may have up to 1” all thread – may be used from the hood down to the frame, but must go through the front body mounts. The top 5” of all thread may be welded to radiator support. May run all thread behind radiator support down to top of frame and be welded to top of frame with no added material. Hood bolts must be sheet metal to sheet metal. Hood must be open for inspection. Plates for hood bolts cannot exceed 5x5x ½ inch. Hood bolts can be up to 1 inch in diameter.

7. You can fold hoods or trunk decks over but 60% of the hood must be in factory location. Trunk lids may be laid flat on the trunk floor and welded, but must have 2 LARGE holes cut out of it for inspection! No tucking of wagon roof. May pre-bend, but not tuck!

8. 2-1” All-thread may go from the trunk lid to frame, MUST go through body mount hole and you must have a spacer between the body and fame.

9. Body mount bolts can be replaced with 1” bolts, body mounts can be replaced with steel or washers but must be 1¼” thickness and have the same diameter. May weld spacers to body but not to the frame. Bolts may extend through body and have up to a 5”x5”x ¼ ” thick washer on top. Bolt must be up inside of frame as factory and may have larger washer inside of frame. Radiator support mount can be removed and you can suck the radiator support down solid. Radiator mount bolts can be up to 1 inch in diameter.

10. Wire can go from radiator support (NOT HOOD) to bumper in two spots (4 loops max).

11. You can patch rust holes in sheet metal with sheet metal only! Do not cut rust out; weld 2 inches beyond rust. Do not patch the frame or weld the body to the frame! Weld rules doesn’t apply when patching rust holes.

12. Tie-rods, A-arms, ball joints and other steering/suspension must remain stock. No excusive spring clamps.

13. You can run shifter through floor and you can have a switch panel. You may also have a hand throttle. If you are running an electric fuel pump – must be hooked up to you ignition switch – so when your car shuts off – it shuts off.

14. You may alter your steering column to prevent loss of steering. Steering knuckles, homemade steering shafts, etc.

15. You may cut wheel wells for tire clearance. Fenders may be bolted back together with 5-3/8” bolts or less. The fender well may be trimmed and welded, using 5” weld rule. The rear quarter panel is considered part of the rear fender.

16. For safety, you are allowed 1 strap in each door window opening, straps can be 2” wide – ¼” thick and can be welded 5” on the door & 5” on the roof Hardtop cars may have another strap at the door post. Must have 1 bar in windshield from roof to dash for safety reasons.

17. Radiator support may have 2”x 2” x 3/16” angle iron on top of the radiator support.

PRINCETON DEMOLITION DERBY

2008 Chain Class Rules

This class is designed for entry level drivers.

1. Headers through hoods allowed.

2. Stock gas tanks must be removed.

3. Any car allowed – Mopar 1980 and newer, Ford 1980 and newer, all GM 1980 and newer.

4. No studded tires or wheel weights. No snow or aggressive tires on rear. Any “D.O.T.” stamped tire allowed.

5. Valve stem protectors are acceptable. (Must meet judges safety standards or be taken off).

6. Radiators must remain in the stock location and be filled with water only.

7. Transmission coolers are acceptable inside or outside, the car but must have approved steel or hydraulic hose.

8. Original gas tanks must be removed. You must use a boat tank or well made fuel cell and it must be secured and covered. No plastic tanks or gas cans. Fuel line must be secured and fastened properly. Place fuel cell behind driver’s seat of the car where the back seat used to be. Must be fastened down securely, No plumbers strap, bungy straps or self tapping screws.

9. Bumper Shocks may be welded, bolted or chained so we don’t have loose bumpers on the track. You may trim ends.

10. Windshield screen is also highly recommended.

11. If not running stacks through the hood a hole must be cut for fire safety.

12. Trunk lids may be fastened in 4 places with chain 3/8 inch, 6 loops maximum.

13. Driver’s door may be welded shut, all others chained with 3/8 inch chain. No welding of any other doors but drivers door.

14. Frames must remain factory stock.

15. Stock suspensions must be left intact. No welding up A arms or tie rods.

16. Batteries must be placed in the passenger’s side floorboard and secured and covered. Any 12 volt battery safely in the car is allowed.

17. Ignition switches and push-button starts are optional (wire it up so it works).

18. Body mounts must remain in position between the frame and the body.

19. No welding leaf springs or adding extra leafs.

20. No welding body seams.

21. Cutting for wheel clearance is allowed.

22. Homemade shifters allowed.

23. Driver’s side window nets recommended.

24. Stock motors only, Ford to Ford, Chev to Chev and Dodge to Dodge.

25. No Dash Bars!

2008 COMPACT RULES AND REGULATIONS
General Compact rules 102" wheel base or less (NO EXCEPTIONS) - 4 cylinder or 6 cylinder:
**If car does not pass inspection or driver is unwilling to change car to pass inspection--absolutely no refunds!!

All cars must be stock, unless modification is stated in the rules.
All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby.
All decking in station wagons MUST be removed!!!
Tires no bigger than 15 inch, No split rims, No studded tire or tractor lugs. Foam filled or Doubled tires OK-we don’t’ want any flats!!! Valve stem protectors OK.
Use motor and tranny of choice, motor must be in stock location. You may chain or weld motor and tranny to keep in place (don’t strengthen the frame).
Rear end may be weld or Locked.
You must use a radiator and it must be in stock location.
All cars must have working brakes.
A-arms, ball joints and Tie-rods must remain stock.
All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
Original gas tanks must be removed. You must use a boat tank or well made fuel cell and it must be properly secured and covered. Fuel line must be secured and fastened properly. Keep away from exhaust. Place fuel cell in the center of the car where the backseat used to be. Transmission coolers will be allowed, but must be safe and properly secured.
Batteries must be moved to passenger floorboard close to transmission. It must be properly secured and covered. No bungy straps.
You must have a number In Bright Colors on each front door and must have 15”x15” sign with car number on it for judging and recognition of car.

Car Building

Doors, trunk lids and hatch lids may be welded must be 5 on 5.
No welding on frame seams.
If you don’t weld your doors, trunk, or tailgate, you can chain them with 3/8 chains or less and you are allowed 2 chains per seam.
**For driver’s protection, you may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost, it can be an X, you may also have a bar across your dash, you may connect the dash bar to bars behind seat across the inside of front door drivers side only, you may also weld your steering column in, you can also weld a plate across the driver’s door not to exceed 6 inches past each seam.
Bumpers are interchangeable. Any Automotive bumper and bumper brackets may be used on any car. No homemade bumpers or brackets. You can weld bumper brackets or towers to the frame. You can weld bumper brackets and shocks to the bumper. You may trim bumper ends or fold them around. No welding on the bumpers except to weld the brackets or shocks. When welding bumpers, shocks and brackets – do not add any metal. Weld shocks and bracket solid if you wish (5-inch weld rule doesn’t apply to shocks or brackets) Weld them good, we don’t want any bumpers falling off! NO PEGS!!
Hood must have at least a 12-inch square hole cut out in case of fire. You can put a bolt every 12” or 4 per hole. You will be allowed 8 hood bolts; you MUST have at least 4 hood bolts through. Hood bolts must be sheet metal to sheet metal only. Hood must be open for inspection. Plates for hood bolts cannot exceed 5x5x ½ inch. Hood bolts can be up to 1 inch in diameter. You may have 2 all-thread, from hood to frame at the Radiator support only. From the top of the Radiator support down 5” may be weld to all-thread. It may be welded to the top of the frame.
Suspension must be at stock height. Leaf springs must be stock. Leaf springs must stagger down in stock spring length from longest to smallest. You can re-clamp springs, 2 clamps per side homemade or factory. Homemade clamps can’t exceed 2x4x1/4 inch. You can put spacers in sagging coil springs to get your height. You can bolt or wire coil springs to rear-end and frame to prevent springs from falling out No bigger than #9 wire or 3/8” chain or cable may be used.
You can run shifter through floor and you can have a switch panel. If you are running an electric fuel pump – must be hooked up to you ignition switch – so when your car shuts off – it shuts off.
You may cut wheel wells for tire clearance. Fenders may be bolted back together with 5-3/8” bolts or less. The rear quarter panel is considered part of the rear fender.
Must have 1 bar in windshield from roof to dash for safety reasons.
Do not use bungee straps, plumbers tape or self tapping screws anywhere on vehicle.
Absolutely NO welding of subframe, kframe, or engine cradles to the unibody.

2008 RULES AND REGULATIONS
1980 & NEWER PRO WELDED STOCK CAR DERBY RULES

1980 and Newer Ford, Mopar, GM

** Please note changes to the 2008 Rules. Please read carefully.**

NO IMPERIALS OR IMP SUBS!!!

Car Preparation

1. All cars must be stock, unless modification is stated in the rules.

2. All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby.

3. All decking in station wagons MUST be removed!!!

4. Tires no bigger than 15 inch, No split rims, No studded tires or tractor lugs. Foam filled or doubled tires OK – we don’t want any flats!!! Valve stems protectors OK.

6. Use rear end of choice, must be 5 lugs. You can tilt rear end if you wish. Welded or posi-track highly recommended.

7. You must use a radiator and it must be in stock location.

8. All cars must have working brakes.

9. A-arms, ball joints and Tie-rods must remain stock.

10. All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.

12. Transmission coolers will be allowed, but must be safe and properly secured.

13. Batteries must be moved to passenger floorboard close to transmission. It must be properly secured and covered. No bungy straps.

14. You must have a number in Bright colors on each front door and must have 15”x15” sign with car number on it for judging and recognition of car.

Car Building

2. If you don’t weld your doors, trunk, or tailgate, you can chain them with 3/8 chains or less and you are allowed 1 chain/wire every 5” per seam.

8. 2-1” All-thread may go from the trunk lid to frame, MUST go through body mount hole and you must have a spacer between the body and fame.

10. Wire can go from radiator support (NOT HOOD) to bumper in two spots (4 loops max).

12. Tie-rods, A-arms, ball joints and other steering/suspension must remain stock. No excusive spring clamps.

14. You may alter your steering column to prevent loss of steering. Steering knuckles, homemade steering shafts, etc.

17. Radiator support may have 2”x 2” x 3/16” angle iron on top of the radiator support.